Paradise: Playa Grande de Montezuma
The sea breeze caresses and refreshes my skin, wet from seawater and sweat. I’m sitting in the cool shade of coconut palms and almond trees on a seemingly endless beach: Playa Grande de Montezuma in Costa Rica. My favorite place in the whole world. And definitely a place worth visiting!
This magical beach on the southern end of Nicoya Peninsula is about a thirty-minute walk from the nearest town, Montezuma. The trip is definitely worth it! For two reasons. First: Playa Grande is paradise on earth. I’m not the only one who thinks so. Local Montezuman Pablo Varela heads out to Playa Grande with his surfboard under his arm: “What I like about Playa Grande is that there are no buildings or roads. All you see is nature. Apart from that, when there are good waves to surf, you can catch any one you want, since there are not many people in the water.” However, the tide can be really strong, so swimmers should be careful.
The journey is the destination
The journey itself is the second reason to go to Playa Grande. From the Costa Rican capital, San Jose, we go by public bus or by car to the port of Puntarenas, then take the ferry at the mouth of the Tempisque River. After an hour’s boat ride to Paquera, it’s about two hours to Montezuma. This picturesque, bohemian town has a tranquil, laid-back atmosphere. The nightlife is exceptional, with plenty of bars and discos. Montezuma has hotel rooms in almost every category. With very affordable prices for any budget. There are also luxury resorts for those looking for more extravagance and comfort. Restaurants serve local dishes and international food. Vegetarians will also find several good places to eat in Montezuma.
From this charming town it’s a day trip to Playa Grande. It’s best to leave in the morning, before the sun begins to burn and after a good breakfast of tropical fruits or “gallo pinto.” This typical Costa Rican dish consists of rice and black beans served with corn tortillas, eggs any style and fried cheese or meat sauce.
For nature lovers
The trail to Playa Grande runs along beaches and through tropical dry forests. I like to go in sandals, so I can wear them in the woods and easily take them off to walk barefoot on the sand. Pablo, our surfer, also likes the trail. “The walk is interesting because it goes through two nature reserves and the path is nice for taking pictures. You can also occasionally see howler monkeys, called ‘congos’ or white-faced monkeys,” he explains.
After about 20 minutes past beaches and through the forest, the trail reaches Playa de Piedra Colorada, which takes its name from the red-pebble sand. The river flows into the ocean, and it’s pleasant to stop and enjoy the cool water and waterfalls. Although it’s very beautiful we can’t stay long – we have to keep going in order to reach Playa Grande. After a refreshing swim in the fresh water, the trail continues through another bit of forest and reaches a beach made up of shells. This part of the trail is on one of the nature reserves that Pablo told us about – visitors can also volunteer there. The first protected area is called Reserva Natural Absoluta, Nicolás Weessberg and Playa Grande is located in the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Romelia. It was created in 1997 to conserve the tropical forest and beach area. Since 2009 it also protects sea turtles that nest in the sand. Watching the females lay their eggs or seeing the baby turtles hatch from their eggs and crawl to the sea is a unique experience.
With its unspoiled nature, long, lonely coast and ideal surfing waves, I think Playa Grande is the perfect place for anyone who likes to be active, loves nature and wants to relax on a special beach.
Carolina Quesada was born in San Jose, Costa Rica on August 31, 1982. She studied journalism in San Jose, Bremen, Germany, and Avignon, France. She trained in electronic media at the ems/Electronic Media School in Potsdam. She currently lives in Berlin and works in German television and radio.